Common Terms
Avoirdupois Ounce, a unit of weight equivalent to 28.349523125 grams. This is the common ounce, and it is not used to measure the weight of precious metals. (See Troy Ounce)
Avoirdupois Pound, a unit of weight, equivalent to 16 avoirdupois ounces. One (1) avoirdupois pound is legally defined to be 0.45359237 kilograms. This is the common pound and not used for the measurement of precious metals.
Blemish, a defect in a gemstone found at the surface, such as a pit, nick, scratch, chip or even an extra facet where none should be. A blemish differs from an inclusion, which is internal to the gemstone.
Calibrated, a gemstone whose dimensions are a standard (mm) size, and are cut to fit ready made jewelry pieces.See our list of calibrated gemstones. For more information, consult our metric conversion information.
Carat (ct.), unit of weight. One (1) carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams. Carat weight should not be confused with the term karat (kt.), which is used to measure the quality of gold, nor carrot which refers to a plant. The abbreviation(cwt.) is used to indicate the total weight of two or more gemstones, such as the weight of a parcel of stones, or a pair of stones often traded as a group. Carat weight should not be used to judge the size of a stone, as differences in cutting and the depth of a stone can allow stones of the same weight to have different dimensions. Also, the density, or specific gravity of different materials can have the same effect. A one carat sapphire for instance is much smaller than a one carat opal. When looking for a setting for a particular gemstone, the stones dimensions in millimeters should be used, not the carat weight.
Grain, unit of weight, one (1) grain is equivalent to 0.32399455 carats, or 1/24 pennyweight.The term is sometimes used to approximate a quarter carat.
Gram, unit of weight in the Metric system. One (1) ounce (avdp.) is equivalent to 28.349523125 grams(141.747615625 ct.). Rough(uncut) material is often sold by the gram, whereas cut or finished gemstones are generally sold by the carat.
Hardness, measured by the Mohs scale (1-10), named after the mineralogist Friedrich Mohs (1773-1839) :
Inclusion, an inclusion within a gemstone is an internal flaw, or included crystal, bubble, cloud, graining, fracture, etc.. Inclusions are differnt from blemishs, which are imperfections at the surface of the gemstone. Inclusions are not always bad. Inclusions can be used like a finger print, to identify diamonds and other valuable gemstones. Inclusions can often be used to tell the difference between natural and synthetic gemstones, and in some types of gemstones, the inclusion can even pinpoint the source of the natural stone. In some cases, inclusions can actually increase the brilliance of a gemstone. Beware of emeralds and rubies which do not contain inclusions, as these are extremely rare, and are probably synthetic.
Karat (K or Kt.), a measure of the amount of gold present in a gold alloy, expressed in 1/24ths. An alloy under 10 Kt.gold is not legally called gold in the U.S. (9 Kt.in England). The number in parentheses in the table below indicates a marking that is found on some foreign manufactured jewelry, expressed in thousandths.
- 10 kt.is 10/24 or 41.60% gold(416).
- 12 kt.is 12/24 or 50.00% gold(500).
- 14 kt.is 14/24 or 58.33% gold(585).
- 18 kt.is 18/24 or 75.00% gold(750).
- 24 kt.is 24/24 or 100% "solid" gold(usually 99.999%).
Kilogram (kg.), a unit of weight equivalent to 1000 grams, or 2.2046226 pounds(avoirdupois), or 32.150737 troy ounces.
Loupe, a small magnifying lens, usually 10x magnification.
Melee, also known as an accent stone, a small round gemstone, usually less than 4mm in diameter. Melee stones are placed around a larger center gemstone to accent it, and make the center stone or jewelry piece appear larger.Melee diamonds may have fewer facets than a standard round brilliant cut.
Millimeter (mm.), a measure of distance in the Metric system. One (1) inch is defined to be 25.4 millimeters. The metric system is the standard used in the jewelry industry, by gemologists, and by science worldwide. For more information, consult our metric conversion information.
Ounce (oz.), a particularly confusing set of units, used to measure weight and volume. There are two versions of ounces for weight, troy (also called apothecaries) and avoirdupois (common ounce). There are also two versions of the fluid ounce, used to measure volume, the british fluid ounce, and the U.S. fluid ounce. To add to the confusion, a troy pound is 12 troy ounces, whereas the avoirdupois(common pound) is 16 avoirdupois ounces. When measuring the weights of precious metals, the troy ounce is the standard used.
Pennyweight (dwt.), a measure of weight, used to weigh precious metals. One (1) pennyweight is equivalent to 1/20 ounce (troy), or 24 grains, or 1.55517384 grams, or 7.7758692 carats.
Point, unit of weight. One (1) point is equivalent to 0.01 (1/100) carats. The term point should not be confused with the number of facets that a gemstone may have.
Precious Stones, an obsolete term which generally is used to refer to diamond, emerald, sapphire or ruby.
Semi-precious Stones, also an obsolete term used to describe gemstones which are not diamond, emerald, sapphire or ruby. These terms are misleading as many "semi-precious" gemstones are extremely valuable, and some "precious" gemstones are of such poor quality that their value is very low.
Troy Ounce, a unit of weight, used to measure precious metals and gemstones. One (1) troy ounce is equivalent to 1.0971429 ounces (avdp.), or 31.103486 grams, or 155.51743 carats, or 20 pennyweight (dwt) or 480 grains.
Troy Pound, a unit of weight, equivalent to 12 troy ounces.
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